Friday, March 11, 2011

Japan in Memoriam: Matsushima Bay and The Godaido

Matsushima Bay, Japan

TO SEE FURTHER MATSUSHIMA UPDATES, CLICK HERE.

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UPDATE (7:00 A.M. CDST, March 19, 2011)

The Zuiganji is apparently undamaged enough to be used as a shelter. Details here.

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UPDATE (9:15 a.m. CDST, March 17, 2011)

I have just posted an update summing up where things stand as of this morning.

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UPDATE (or non-update) (6:00 a.m. CDST, 3/15/11)


I have been scouring Lexis-Nexis, Westlaw, and Google looking for mentions of Matsushima and its temples in the news, but apart from some mentions in the Italian press yesterday as discussed in Update #7, there has been nothing.

This silence is, I think, painful but appropriate. The people of Japan have suffered an unimaginable catastrophe, and it is right that everyone's attention should be on caring for the suffering and finding the dead, not to mention dealing with a growing nuclear disaster. My emphasis on Matsushima is beginning to feel a bit shallow, if not callous, but of course my first concern is for the people of Japan.

Let me sum up what we know right now. The few news reports that mention Matsushima, along with a few photos, indicate that the area was damaged, but not destroyed the way surrounding areas were, including Higashi-Matsushima and parts of Sendai. There are several photos showing the Godaido standing and with its roof intact. The extent of any damage to it is unknown. There are no photos of Zuiganji, but at least one press report of some significant damage to its walls.

I think we will have to leave it at that for now. Eventually we will get more news, and when I find it I will report it on this blog. In the meantime, let us turn our attention to the people and what we can do to help.

I donated through the American Red Cross, which is sending supplies and assistance. Other possibilities include UNICEF and Save The Children, both of which are emphasizing assisting children affected by the disaster. There are many other options as well. Please do what you can.
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 UPDATE #7 (6:30 a.m. CDST, 3/14/11)


An Italian news site claims Zuiganji Temple has significant damage. Read the full update here.

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UPDATE #6 (6:30 p.m. CDST 3/13/11)


Another picture with Godaido still standing

[I have removed the picture because I don't have the photographer's permission to use it. I, of all people, should know better! The picture with Godaido still standing can be seen using the link.]


This was sent to me by Josh B (thank you) but the original is here: http://p.twipple.jp/chxUC

The photographer's page, with more pictures, is here: http://p.twipple.jp/user/meshikui3

I would have to say that things look bad but not terrible.
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UPDATE # 5 (6:00 p.m. CDST, 3/13/11)


Are there glimmers of hope? Some passing news mentions seem to imply that the temples in Matsushima survived the earthquake and tsunami. Read the full update post for details

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UPDATE #4 (9:18 a.m CDST, 3/13/11)

An anonymous commenter (#38--March 13 8:31 a.m.) has posted this link to a picture that appears to show the Godaido, still standing, in Matsushima Bay. As the commenter says, the picture is hard to make out:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellockie/5518585411/

You will have to judge for yourself if this is a hopeful sign. Again, thank you to all commenters.

I have been searching all the news sources I can, including Google News, Yahoo! News, and Lexis-Nexis, but have yet to find any mention of Matsushima Bay. That said, it appears that the Sendai area is much worse off than we first thought, and according to the Associated Press, "Large areas of the countryside remained surrounded by water and unreachable."

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UPDATE #3 (7:15 p.m. CST, 3/12/11)

Thanks for all the wonderful comments on this post.  I will continue to post any news about Matsushima that I can find from legitimate sources. If you have news I haven't found, or wish to contact me directly, please write to me at pdhphoto@gmail.com.

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UPDATE #2 (6:30 a.m. CST, 3/12/11)
I am still unable to find any solid information on conditions in Matsushima Bay. However, I did find two pictures of destroyed trains, said to be taken in Matsushima City. Those pictures can be seen here and here. Unfortunately, if their location information is accurate, their implications for the rest of Matsushima Bay are not good.

Some information is available on Higashi-Matsushima and Matsushima Air Base, both of which have been completely inundated and destroyed. However,  it should be noted that both are directly on the coast, on flat land east of Matsushima Bay. Whether the geography of the bay had a protective effect for the Godaido and Zuiganji is still an open question.
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UPDATE #1:
My post today on the probable destruction of Matsushima in the March 11 Japan earthquake and tsunami has generated over 10 times the normal traffic to my blog. To first time readers, thank you for stopping by.

If you want to help the people of Sendai, and Japan, CNN has information on how to contribute here. Please consider donating to the Red Cross or Save The Children.

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(Posted 11:00 a.m. CST, 3/11/11)
This post may be premature--I pray that it is--but today's devastating earthquake in Japan is almost certain to have heavily damaged, if not destroyed, one of Japan's great national treasures: Matsushima Bay.  I should make clear that my first thoughts, and my prayers, are for the people of Japan, and Sendai, as they face this terrible disaster. But to lose Matsushima and its treasures would be terrible indeed. Located on the coast just north of Sendai, Matsushima was near the epicenter of the quake, and in a direct line to get hit by the tsunami that has ravaged Sendai and other areas on the Miyagi coast. News is not yet available about Matsushima itself, but the rampant destruction we've seen in Sendai, to the south, and other points to the north, makes the unthinkable seem inevitable.

Matsushima bay is one of the Three Great Views of Japan. It is a beautiful bay filled with 260 low, pine-covered islands. As one of the Three Great Views, it is one of three locations that all Japanese people hope to visit and enjoy in their lifetimes. Here is a view of the bay from the shoreline:


Of even greater concern than the largely unoccupied islands are the ancient relics and temples that line the Matsushima shore, particularly the Godaido and Zuiganiji temples. These are ancient temples that preserve some of Japan's oldest historic relics.  Here is the Godaido:

 
Godaido was first built in 807 on a small islet just feet off the shore. It is a small temple that contains 5 famous statues of Buddhist saints. These statues can only be viewed by the public every 33 years--most recently in 2006. The loss of the Godaido and its statues would be not unlike France having the Louvre and the Mona Lisa destroyed. The cultural cost would be very great. Here is another picture (with a much younger me in it) to show how precarious the Godaido's position is in relation to the ocean:


The Zuiganji temple was also founded in the 800s and has many historical relics in its museum, in addition, its grounds have many small caves carved into the side of the hill, for meditation, that are filled with ancient rock carvings. The loss or heavy damage of the Zuiganji would also be devastating


Finally here is a map of Matsushima bay, showing the location of these places. The Godaido is at the center, the Zuiganji just below it:


As I said above, my first thoughts, and my prayers, are for the people of Japan, and Sendai, as they face this terrible disaster. However, Japan is a country with an ancient, wonderful culture. Let's hope that the cost to the people of Japan, in lives and property, doesn't have to be exacerbated by the lost of precious cultural heritage.

52 comments:

  1. I've been in Matsushima last summer, very nice place. My first thought when i heard about tsunami in Sendai. Sergio (amateur photographer) Italy

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  2. I visited this area in 2009. I pray that it has been spared. Unfortunately, there seem to be a lack of news reports about this area so soon after the quake and tsunami.

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  3. I share your concern and also posted about Matsushima: http://armandsrancho.blogspot.com/2011/03/biggest-recorded-quake-hits-japan.html

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  4. My wife and I visited Matsushima Bay in 1985, staying at the Taikanso Ryokan and taking a walking tour of the village, with a stop for a beverage at the (then) new Matsushima Century hotel. I then climbed O-taka-mori for a view of the bay while she returned to the hot bath at our hotel. I hope the damage was survivable, as we loved our visit. No news reports that far east of Sendai, yet, however. (from Baxter Clifford)

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  5. I visited Matsushima two summers ago, and my sons were there two weeks ago. It is a beautiful spot and I am terribly saddened by recent events.

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  6. I love Matsushima and pray that it has been spared

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  7. I'm glad to find your blog, I have been worried about Matsushima all day. We visited there in November, 2006, and had a delightful day. We took the boat ride through the islands, toured the two temples you mention, and also visited a kokeshi shop that had it's own workshop. I'm saddened by the destruction the earthquake and tsunami caused, and am worried about what happened to this lovely place.

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  8. My family visited Matsushima Bay in August 2010. It was my second visit there, but the first for my young children. They are so sad to imagine that Marinepia, the aquarium they enjoyed so much, may longer exist. We have several friends in Sendai and a long history of working and visiting Sendai. I desperately want to know what has happened to Matsushima and the core of Sendai city!

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  9. Thank you for your sensitive blog at this painful and uneasy time.

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  10. My husband an I were very good friends to Hirano Roshi who was the abbott of Zuigan Ji. We are very worried and sad about tris terrible tragedy. We got mariried there. Norma

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  11. I visted Matsushima on a beautiful autumn day over twenty year ago. When I head of the earthquake and its location I immediately thought of Matsushima. We can only hope the people and the surrounds have somehow been spared.

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  12. After making sure our son and his family were safe in Tokyo our thoughts turned to the Sendai area where we travelled last October and in particular to Matsushima. And then again to Godaido built in the 800's. It would be criminal if it were destroyed but watching video footage of the tsunami I don't hold out much hope. Japan is very resilient and I'm sure they will bounce back but the loss of life is such a waste.

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  13. from Gabi in Westerb Japan:

    Matsushima ya ...

    It seems from a camp of the self defence force a flotilla of 28 airplains (helicopters?) were washed away from the tsunami.
    More than 300 people who worked there can not be reached ...

    http://haikuandhappiness.blogspot.com/2011/03/big-earthquake.html

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  14. Matsushuma, jeweled bay
    Sleepy ripples, cranes
    Crushing giant rolls over

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  15. I was there just thursday with a group of scientists from all over the world. We cam to Sendai to discuss planetary science at Tohoku. We went to Matsushima for a break on thursday afternoon to admire and commune. These wood temples surviving 100's of years. Its hard to fathom how they could be gone in an instant. Old age doesn't change the fragility of what we live with and take for granted...

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  16. I have been to Matsushima and Sendai. I'm hoping for the best.

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  17. I felt I must add a few words also. I stopped in Sendai and Matsushimakaigan mid-February 2011, never having been either place before. I had a lovely trip to Japan and have spoken often of the beauty of the coastal region there since my return. The news of the earthquake is very unsettling. I can only hope that the beautiful red bridge that I crossed and enjoyed still stands. I will return.

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  18. Our family visited Matsushima and took a tour of the Bay three weeks ago. We look at the photos now with sadness - and hope for the best possible outcome for this beautiful place and its lovely people.

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  19. I've read that Higashi-Matsushima got hit by a 10m tsunami. Higashi-Matsushima is east of the bay and quite flat and unprotected. Matsushima Bay seems to be more protected and may have been spared - have not come across any info about Matsushima Bay.

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  20. My family and I are also saddened by the possible effects on the beautiful town of Higashi-Matsushima. We visited shortly before new year 2011 and were taken by the beauty and the friendliness of the local people. I recall how, on returning to the station, when stopped at the traffic lights, my eye set upon the green and white tsunami warning sign opposite me across the pedestrian crossing. Truly, the locals have lived with this fear and the reality is ... I trust lives have been spared at least.

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  21. My family went to Sendai, stayed there for two nights and left only a day before the quake and the tsunami... We had a good seafood lunch at SAKURAI restaurant just opposite the Godaido and Zuiganji temple. We had a boat ride and fed the seagulls at the Matsushima Bay. We also spot the many small islands... one of which has been the most favorite of the Great Date Matsumune... the small rock with only one tree on top. I was deeply sad and shall treasure the good visit to these places and sending along my very best wishes to all of the people there.

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  22. My wife and myself visited Matsushima 2 months ago. Romantic place with great people, heritage and seafood. May everyone there be safe.

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  23. Lets hope the wave was of water only when it hit Matsushima bay and not a damaging wall of rubble crushing everything in its way.. I was in Matsushima and Sendai last April for the Sakura.. Beautiful people, beautiful country..

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  24. I will return to this blog for updates. Visited Sendai and Matsushima last summer with my family. Made new friends and memories that will last forever. My heart is heavy at this moment, as I am sure is true for others visiting this blog. Thank you for the updated information.

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  25. There's still no news on the status of Matsushima Bay. I am hopeful that if the epicenter was more south of the bay, a peninsula may have deflected the tsunami and spared the bay.

    I am constantly checking for news. If anyone finds hard news on Matsushima Bay, please post the link. Thanks.

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  26. I have seen photos of Matsushima Air Base not far from the bay on another blog in here, and it looks like it was water only rising the sea level. The buildings looks intact, so I think the trees and islands has survived, but I'm worried about the people living there..

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  27. My husband and I visited Matsushima Bay five years ago, and feel very fortunate to have the photographs and solid memories of a beautiful treasured place. Apart from the glorious sights, we experienced bumbling, hilarious tourists, a delicious small squid for lunch, and happy, happy people. I pray that those people are safe.
    How sad to even contemplate the loss of this area.

    THANK YOU for your posts Mr. Healy. By the way, how does one contact you personally? I see no email for you; I am also from E-C Illinois.

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  28. I visited Matsushima in 2007 and was overcome by the beauty of the bay and the temples perched on rocks. My favorite spot, Zuiganji with its caves and groves of towering, but delicate cedars has been playing in my mind since the devastation in Sendai and Miyage. I can still see myself wandering through the wide boulevardes lined with Ginko and Zelkovia trees, eating beef tongue and enjoying elegant storefronts with beautiful kimono fabric and charming people. To my delight, I found a beautiful, old shop full of antique tea ceremony utensils with an upstairs room for the performing of tea ceremony by those in Sendai learning the art.
    I spent four hours there, admiring bowls, fabric, bamboo wisks. The owner graciously made green tea and offered a delicious sweet to me. I wish I had been able to speak Japanese.
    I pray they are safe and that the beauty of the bay is not totally gone.Thank you for this blog- it helps ease the pain with others.

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  29. My husband and I stayed in Matsushima for 4 months in the early 1980s. I have been very worried, and am grateful for your post. There was an old tea house in the temple grounds that we frequently visited, a favorite spot. I will check back in to your blog, hoping to find an update. It seems inevitable that there has been some damage. My heart goes out to the Japanese people.

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  30. Thanks for keeping tabs on the area - although I only spent two weeks shuttling between Sendai and Matsushima Bay the area is one of my favorites in the world. Our thoughts are with the people of Japan.

    dave

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  31. After the tsunami that hit the northeast coast of Japan, I could not help thinking of Matsushima Bay and the 2 days spent in one of the three most beautiful places in Japan. I have posted some of my photos on the link below. Weather was hazy and the camera set wrong, but the views were unforgetable. I too am afraid that it will never be the same.
    http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=58228&id=100000116155876&l=f7893955b9

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  32. We visited from(Mt Martha Australia) with our son (Rotorua New Zealand) and stayed 3 days at Matsushima in September 2010 and in that special time got to see so much of this beautiful seaside town. Memories that will remain forever - The garden, the bridge, eating oysters in the street, sushi and wonderful food in cute restaurants where one night we ate with the owner until late in the night and also enjoy the best Ice Coffee we were able to buy anywhere in Japan
    It was so good to find your site, but our worst fears still remain for that part of the world.
    Will keep checking your site..... Thanks

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  33. I visited Matsushima nearly 30 years ago and it was the first place I thought of when I heard of the devastating earthquake and tsunami off the coast near Sendai. I can't imagine how it could have been spared, but am praying for a miracle. The ancient temples, the caves and the myriad nori fields in Matsushima Bay all are bring back very beautiful and personal memories. I still have a kokeshi doll I purchased in a little shop there.

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  34. Although I have never been to Matsushima Bay in person, I have visited the marina there everyday for over a year thru my iPad. There is a live cam app that had two round the clock cameras showing the penguin exhibit. I fell in love with these adoreable penguins and shared many wonderful hours with my grandchildren observing their days spent swimming, eating and just being plain funny. There were two "Emporer Penguins" that stole our heart and the thought of what they may have gone thru is heartbreaking. I also feel so awful and sad for their caretakers and others who worked in the acquarium. Not an hour before the earthquake, I was looking at the penguins and noticed a young girl taking photos of the swimming penguins. The thought that she and all the other visitors were in the acquarium when the tsunami hit is just two much to bear. As soon as I heard the news I turned on my iPad and selected the acquarium app. It is now just a black screen. Need I say more. I was hoping to visit in person next year.

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  35. Matsushima Bay is one of my very favorite places on this planet....how my heart aches to know if it will retain the peaceful beauty of my last visit there...I am searching for news but there just doesnt seem to be anything specific.

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  36. 松島や
    ああ松島や
    松島や
    Strange how such a once-joyful haiku now carries such a ghostly atmosphere...

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  37. For those without Japanese script display, or seeking more background, the above is a haiku by Matsuo Basho in a poetry contest. In a gesture suggesting words could not outdo the natural beauty of the scenery, he wrote:

    Matsushima, oh
    a-ah, Matsushima, oh
    Matsushima, oh

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  38. It's difficult to make out, but this is a photo of the Godaido area: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ellockie/5518585411/

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  39. Ich war letztes jahr mit meiner Familie in Matsushima.dort lebt unser Freund und wir wurden von seiner Familie so herzlich aufgenommen,das werden wir nie vergessen. Matsushima ist traumhaft schön.wir haben uns direkt verliebt.ich habe so etwas schönes noch nie gesehen.
    Ich weiß nicht wie verwüstet Matsushima jetzt ist ...ob irgendwas geblieben
    ist--bin nur ohne Ende traurig.Ich werde beeten

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  40. I was a British dancer (one of six) who danced at Hotel Taikanso in Matsushima Bay, in 1987. I had my 21st birthday (June of that year) at the hotel. Many happy memories of the place and I too pray that it has somehow survived. My thoughts with all people in Japan. Pamela

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  41. I posted the other day and just received the following email from my friend who lives in Japan when I asked him about Matsushima Bay:

    My friends say Sendai city is not so bad now.
    Life lines recover gradually.
    About Matsushima
    The beautiful islands were broken.
    Matsushima shrine was broken.
    There is no information about Marinepia.
    But Marinepia is very close to sea.
    I think the damage is big because of so big tsunami.
    I send E-mail to you when I have new information

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  42. Wow! We visited Matsushima in 2008 and have been anxiously scanning the news for any reports from there. What a beautiful place with so many irreplaceable antiquities. Also, my heart goes out to all of the Japanese people...if any culture can overcome this tragedy, they are the ones to do it. Always so friendly and helpful, wherever we went in Japan.

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  43. I wrote the post earlier about the precious penguins I enjoyed watching on my iPad live cam at Marinepia. I am still holding out hope for Matsushima Bay but am disheartened after reading the above post. How sad for all from this horrible tragedy. I live in Florida and have never been to Japan. I was planning a trip there, especially to see the beauty of Matsushima Bay and of course the acquarium. Now I guess I'll wait and see how all of this comes out. This seems so unfair to the Japanese people. This is so unfair to all those who have waited too long to go there. I'll be waiting for further posts. Thank you to those responding to our interest.

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  44. Thank you for gathering this information. I, too, have been looking for information about Matsushima, all the while feeling a little shallow for doing so.

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  45. Count me in amongst the ones thanking you for this. I've been to Matsushima bay twice, and was dreading the idea of seeing the seaside destroyed like the other places, but I'm glad that it looks like the people there made it relatively safely. I plan to go back there next year, God willing.

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  46. Here is a link to a recent update on Matsushima Bay, which appears les damaged than many feared:

    http://www.smh.com.au/world/up-to-his-neck-in-icy-water--and-far-too-tough-to-surrender-20110316-1bxe5.html

    Don Beattie

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  47. Here is the text of a webpage reference I sent earlier: The website also has a photo.

    Up to his neck in icy water - and far too tough to surrender
    John Garnaut NOBIRU
    March 17, 2011

    Tetsuo ... ‘‘I must never die.’’

    Tetsuo ... ‘‘I must never die.’’

    SOME people willed themselves for the sake of their children. Others are just stubborn by nature. And for 77-year-old Tetsuo, as he hung onto a roof beam inside his living room and the ice cold water rose to his neck, it was all about his mother-in-law.

    ''I kept saying to myself I must not die for the sake of my wife's mother,'' he said as tears welled. ''She is in hospital now and if I had let go I'm quite sure she would have died of shock,'' he continued, reliving that moment.

    ''I must never die. I must be strongly determined to conquer everything. I must live just a little bit longer then I can help her.''
    Advertisement: Story continues below

    Tsunamis come in all shapes and sizes but this one lingered longer than it should have.

    It stayed above Tetsuo's shoulders - 30 centimetres below the ceiling - for a full half hour before receding. After an hour it was down to his waist. Then his knees. The frozen, exhausted, septuagenarian staggered to his sodden tatami mat and lay there, shivering and thinking, in the post-tsunami silence.

    Tetsuo's water-logged home is in Matsushima. The town is protected by a stunningly beautiful maze of coves and islands topped with bonsai-shaped Japanese pines, which kept the worst of the tsunami at bay.

    The water rose only three metres and the town was relatively lightly effected, as the local emergency services chief told stranded tourists this week.

    But everything is relative. Tetsuo lived, against the odds, but he said some of his neighbours had died. He is staying at a friend's home 10 kilometres inland.

    Half of his town has been smashed to bits and most of the rest is under water. Soldiers were still pulling bodies from the river reeds when I cycled past.

    There is no food, no fuel and little dry ground. Helicopters overhead issue frequent warnings that more tsunamis may be coming.

    Tetsuo showed affection for me and my American colleague, because, ''Japan, Australia and America were all in World War II''.

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  48. I only found three pictures on Yahoo images:

    http://news.search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt=A2KJjamV2IFNqGAAxVDQtDMD;_ylu=X3oDMTEwMHYxMTdoBHNlYwNpbWFnZQRjb2xvA3NwMgR2dGlkA1VTTjAxOF8z?ei=UTF-8&p=matsushima+miyagi+prefecture&fr=news-us-sshow&section=photo

    I looked at the maps again and also listened to some experts explain why some areas were more harshly affected by the tsunami than others. Apparently a lot has to do with the shape of the shoreline and probably a lot of modelling with non-linear equations.

    Matsushima bay is somewhat protected by one of the larger islands and it may very well be that the plethora of smaller islands lessened the impact.

    I know it seems so superficial to be focused on Matsushima since it is hardly a large population center but it has great significance to the Japanese people (like American watching the Statue of Liberty brought down by a tsunami).

    But all of us who have been there took the SenIshi line (Sendai to Ishinomaki) and I think we have all seen that there is nothing left of that and many of the other cities we passed through to get to Matsushima...please keep posting updates

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  49. Thank you so much for sharing this good news regarding the temple from the Italian press. Here's hoping that we will soon find a photo of the area showing all is well. The search continues.........

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  50. I have read an update from JAZA, Japanese Association of Zoos and Acquariums that the Marinepia at Matsushima Bay received severe damage but the employees and animals all survived. The first floor flooded out but the acquarium has a generator so they have power foe now.they said the whole area in Matsushima Bay is heavily damaged since the tsunami hit directly there but many structures survived with considerable damage. Thet feel the tourist destination has been dealt a terrible set back. There is no electricity in the area and food is scarce. jAZA is requesting donations on their website to help with food for the animals and relocation costs to send some of the animals to other zoos or aquariums. It sounds pretty dire even though they are existing for now. My heart breaks for these wonderful Japanese people and their horrible plight. I will keep you posted of further information that I come across regarding Matsushima Bay after the disaster.

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  51. What about General MacArthur's summer house? Did it survive?

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